Little Discoveries: Metz, France

Day trip to Metz, France

 Driving in France:  some of the signs are a bit different than those on the German licensing test!  

We weren’t sure what they all meant, but we are certain one should be mindful of the dangers that could exist!

Our first excursion to France in search of WWII battlegrounds led us to Metz, France.  Little did we know we would discover a gem of a city with over 1400 years of turbulent history!  From Call of Duty video games, we were interested to see what history we might discover in the alt Staat.  Thinking about the battles that occurred here during WWII in the narrow streets was humbling.

We did a lot of walking: with older children and so many awesome things to see we didn’t mind!  The tourism office was right next to Metz Cathedral and had English speaking guides --get the city walking tour pamphlet and follow one of the tours:  they are marked on the sidewalk all thru out the city!   Sadly, we didn’t know this BEFORE we started walking everywhere.  But, you never know what you’ll find around the corner when you don’t really have a plan!

Little discoveries in Metz:

Because it was technically still the Christmas season, the markets were still open offering Ferris wheel rides & tasty treats (pretzels, gluhwein, escargot, chestnuts & churros...) and the nativity scene was viewable at the Cathedral.

We were there on the Saturday before Epiphany:  bakeries brimming with delicious cakes and treats to celebrate the manifestation of Christ to the 3 kings.  

Nativity display at Metz Cathedral

We were starving by 14:00, but discovered that is not a good time to find an open restaurant!  “Désolé, nous sommes fermés.”  (Sorry, we are closed).  So, we found a street vendor and thanks to A, he ordered for us!  (Whew, a few of those French lessons have stuck in his head!) 

Little discovery:  a little mom & pop game store with many of our favorite board games, but all en Français!  It was fun to watch people in the store playing games and not understand at all what they were saying.  Sadly, I didn’t take a photo of this moment, but I wasn’t sure how to really ask....

A few more turns thru the streets and we stumbled upon St. Jacques Square.  It's central fountain an homage to the Virgin Mary, is the site of wonderful farmer & antique markets in the spring

Another path led us to a beautiful church ruin.  Discovered during a rebuilding project in the 1970s --the ruins were named after the Roman officer, St Livier was martyed in 451. During the French Revolution (1791) the parish was abolished and abandoned.  St Livier's church dates from the 8th Century --only the narthex and part of the nave remain.  

Temple Neuf (protestant) built by the Germans 1901-1909 in grey stone to symbolize German style intended as a break from "excessively French" gold limestone.  This region of France has gone back and forth between the 2 countries for many hundreds of years!

Z thinks about his next painting... 

Metz Cathedral:  

In AD 280 St Clement brought Christianity to Metz amidst Roman ruins.  After Metz was attacked by Atila the Hun in 451, the church moved to its current location.  In the 1220’s the core structure of the cathedral was begun.  I’m not sure what happened next but it took from 1359-1520 for the building to be constructed…its claim to fame:  3rd highest Nave in France = 137 feet 

70,000 sq feet of stained glass in the cathedral--largest surface area of windows in France-- dating from 13th to 20th centuries including work by Russian artist Marc Chagall.  

Chagall windows

If you go there: Remember to bring Euro change to get your car through the tolls:  €4.30 as of January 2013 each way!

Best parking for the walking tours is the city garage on the boulevard André Maginot by the Porte des Allemands or garage on rampart Saint Thiébault near Place St-Thiébault (easy walk to the Esplanade and Place de la République.)

Tschuß!

Linda